You've bought a used van or you want to convert your beloved van into a camper, but you've already spotted rust in a few spots? That doesn't have to mean your conversion dream is over. Rusty patches on the bodywork are nothing unusual, especially on older vehicles, and they can be treated well if caught early. Here you'll learn what else to watch out for when buying a used camper.

At VanSite you'll now find everything you need to know about treating rust on your beloved van.

Oxidation explained: how exactly does rust form on a car?

A vehicle's basic frame is made mainly of steel, partly also of aluminium and cast iron. When iron or steel is exposed to moisture (humidity, rain, splash water, seawater and so on) and reacts with the oxygen in the air, the material oxidises (oxidation) on contact with oxygen and water at the same time.

The result: Porous rust that keeps eating away at the material.

These vehicle parts are the most commonly affected by rust:

• Fenders

• Wheel arches

• Fuel filler cap

• Door seams

• Door handles

• Sills

• Underbody

So what can you do to remove rust properly and stop it from spreading (further)?

Image from IStockphoto |

Removing rust from your car: 3 methods for rust treatment

When it comes to rust, it basically doesn't matter which vehicle or model you want to convert into a camper. Whether it's a Mercedes Vito, VW T3 / T4 or Fiat Ducato, once the bodywork starts to rust you need to act fast.

There are various methods and products for removing rust for good. But you shouldn't just start welding away. You need to know the tricky bits and the hidden rust traps of older vehicles to keep the rust from coming straight back after removal.

1. Removing light rust by hand brushing

With a light rust attack you can try to remove it by hand with a wire brush or sandpaper. This work is of course very tedious and not possible on every part of a vehicle. There's also the risk that the rust you remove mixes with the unaffected metal and rust forms all over again.

2. Removing moderate rust by sanding

With the help of power tools such as a drill or a cordless screwdriver with a wire brush attachment, light to moderate rust comes off far more efficiently. The best attachments are CSD cleaning discs as the attachment, since they don't attack the "healthy" material.

The fastest and best tool for exposed rust spots is the angle grinder or the Flex. With precisely fitting CSD discs (e.g. with a 115 mm diameter) that fit precisely, rust can be removed properly so it doesn't reappear in that spot.

3. Removing heavy rust by welding, hammering or blasting

For heavy rust attack on awkward, angular vehicle parts in particular, a needle scaler comes in handy. It blasts the rusty layers right off the material with no effort.

Using a sandblaster lets you derust a vehicle's bodywork even in extremely hard-to-reach spots. Disposing of the waste as hazardous material is, however, very difficult.

Finally, what's known as dry ice blasting offers a way to remove heavy rust cleanly and professionally.

Repair: treating rust-free spots and preventing new rust

Once the rust has been successfully removed, the affected spots need to be cleaned with a silicone remover. After that, uneven areas can be levelled out with a fine filler (especially on the outer parts of the vehicle).

Large holes or gaps in the material have to be closed by welding and, if needed, by adding new material with a welder. A rust-inhibiting primer and a final coat of paint protect against fresh rust attack.

Now you know the most important methods and options for removing rust. Want to convert your van yourself once the rust is sorted? Then take a look at our blog category Camper conversion .